I expected to fall in love with Istanbul. I did not. I did have a really fun time, though.
Where to explore
Taking a boat on the Bosphorus is basically mandatory. There’s no need to pay for a touristy cruise when there are so many ferries. We spent a day in Büyükada exploring (and getting lost) with friends. As with any car-free island, it has a lot of local character. Adalar is a cute waterfront village full of cafes and the walk up to the Aya Yorgi Kilisesi was lovely.
Sure, see the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar, but find some local bazaars and marketplaces, too. Çukurcuma is the antique district and offers plenty of things to check out, even if you’re not going to be bringing rugs home with you.
The number of domes and palaces you see is up to you — you could easily spend a week seeing them all or you could make a quick detour on your other explorations.
Wherever you go, you’re sure to befriend some street cats (and dogs!) along the way.
What to see
While everything is in English, the museums of Istanbul lack the polish we’re used to from Europe and North America. If you want to learn the background of the works you’re looking at, you’d be advised to download a book or do your own research beforehand. There’s certainly no shortage of research materials in any language.
Aside from the obvious attractions, Istanbul has some great modern art galleries. I loved the Istanbul Modern.
It feels superfluous to talk about Istanbul attractions. We’re talking about the wonders of the world here and there’s no shortage of sources to point you in the right direction. I saw the top ten and am very happy I did.
Where to work
I’ll admit I didn’t get a lot of work done on this trip, since I was traveling with my mom, but I still scouted out some spots to for remote workers.
I love coffee shops that are also bars, so I’m a fan of Urban.
If you can’t get enough of the cats, you need to go to Kaktüs Kahvesi.
Holy Coffee feels like you’re working in your living room at home, if you happened to be hosting a bunch of random expats. Wifi, snacks, cats.
Where to eat and drink
Istanbul is one of the few places where it seemed like every meal we had was a good one. I’m a sucker for even the most basic Turkish breakfast and love gritty coffee, so I was in heaven. Istanbul is a city of lovely patios and rooftops, so there are lots of opportunities to enjoy good weather.
Münferit is the bar of the moment. It looks like it could be in Brooklyn (or any hip city), but still has a distinctly Istanbul feel. More than one person suggested this spot when I was asking where to go.
Even if you’re not traveling with a German teacher (like I was), it’s worth visiting the Goethe Institute for the Litera Bar. Istanbul is a city of amazing views, but this spot has an exceptional one. Check the institute schedule, since there’s often great programs.
The stalls and carts near Eminönü are one of the best spots for cheap eats and good views. For something a little more…indoors…try Müdavim Lokantasi or Fasuli.
I did not go to Ortaköy for their famous baked potatoes. I had one in Sheepshead Bay and it was awful. Please go and tell me if it’s worth the trip.
Practical matters
There’s no shortage of hostels and hotels in Istanbul. We stayed in a middling hotel that I wouldn’t recommend. Next time I find myself planning a trip to Istanbul, I’ll be booking a place on Flipkey.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BL62QBzgKpv/?taken-by=urban_istanbul
Before my trip, I was told how liberal Istanbul was, how totally safe it was for women, and how gay friendly it was. Coming from New York, it didn’t feel that way to me. While I didn’t feel unsafe at any point, it certainly wasn’t comfortable.
The friends who assured me it was comfortable were locals and Istanbul is certainly liberal compared to the surrounding areas. We each have our own idea of what’s normal and comfortable. If you’re used to liberal New York (or more liberal than Toronto), you’ll experience a less liberal side of the liberal world. Keep your knees covered.
I loved my time in Istanbul! Turkish food was amazing, the city was a mesh of energy and there was just so much to do while I was there. I would spend my days working out of a cafe while enjoying the bustle of the city passing me by.
Istanbul looks like fun. I love the idea of an island with no cars – would be fun to get a horse and cart around! The cafe and restaurants look really cute and cosy!
I love walking around markets. So much to see, do, smell. It’s always wonderful. Though if I could walk my bull through the town streets I’d do that too.
Okay, so I’m already over here making notes of the things you listed here. I would love to visit Istanbul. This city has so much character, history and culture. I’m sure it’ll be as great as I imagined it would be!
Thanks for bringing us this very honest post. Istanbul sure wasn’t what I had expected, which I learned after my first visit there. The Bazaar was never a highlight for me, too many people pulling me aggressively wanting me to come into their shops, and then being angry when you decline to buy. When it comes to food though that is another story, I was pleasantly surprised. Their breakfast is amazing, so many things to choose from, so many different variations of cheese, and so much healthy foods! And their coffee is amazing as well. Did you try Baklava? That’s probably one of my favorite sweets and I always indulge in baklava whenever I travel to Turkey!
What’s that dish in your photo though? I don’t recognize it and I’m usually good at spotting and identifying food haha.
I do completely agree with you that it’s not liberal, at all. They view woman in a different way than men and men are much more respected than women. I have a lot of Turkish friends, they were telling me the same but having been to Istanbul several times, it became apparent to me that what they’re saying was not quite the reality I was met by. I also understand and agree with you on the point that you don’t necessarily need to feel UNSAFE in order to feel uncomfortable.
The food was amazing! I think the dinner in the photo is Turkish ravioli. Luckily, NYC and TO both have large enough Turkish populations that we have some pretty solid culinary offerings at home.
I was really shocked by how aggressive people were! Do other tourists find it charming? I was totally turned off by it. I thought that traveling with my mother would mean not having to worry about unwanted attention, but it was pretty bad. I don’t think I would go back to Turkey unless I was traveling with a man.
Istanbul doesn’t look as crowded as I expected. Great tips on where to work. It can sometimes be overwhelming trying to find somewhere in a big city. The food looks great too!
Are the street dogs and cats friendly? We’ve been in some places where the strays can get quite vicious :S And YUM the baked potatoes look out of this world!
They were super sweet! I was wary at first, too, but it seemed they all had storekeepers or locals taking care of them.
Nice pictures. The bottom one reminds me of the Saladin Citadel of Cairo. Have always fancied going to Istanbul after being a big fan of ‘Midnight Express’, the 1978 movie about Billy Hayes from New York getting busted at the airport with two key of hash. Good post.
What awesome photos you have! Really shows what Istanbul is like! Thanks for sharing! Your blog is really informative too! 🙂